02 Mar

As Gucci finds itself in a period of transition between creative directors, its latest runway show could offer a hint at where the luxury house is headed.

On Friday, Gucci presented its Fall 2023 collection — designed by the in-house studio team, ahead of new creative director Sabato De Sarno's debut in September — in what can best be described as a surrealist corporate venue, with guests seated in circular conversation pits and within geometric concrete booths. The show began with dim office lights flickering on, revealing the carpeted runway, onto which models walked from elevators.

As for the clothes, functionality is a clear consideration this season (a recurring theme at Milan Fashion Week). Compared to previous collections — even the recent Twinsburg of Spring 2023 — there are a lot more digestible pieces that can be clearly envisioned off the runway, with an emphasis on workwear like suiting separates, knits and dresses, with the occasional statement jacket.

At the same time, Alessandro Michele's influence is still clearly present, with pops of eccentricity present throughout, most notably in a faux-fur blue coat and a balloon-hip bustle dress that give off the designer's surrealist energy.

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